Peaks of the Balkans: the 120-mile trail across the Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo borders

I’m hiking along the Ropojana Valley, in Prokletije – the so-called ‘Accursed Mountains’ which make up the rugged borderlands of Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. It’s an evocative name, but one which fails to do the area justice, since it’s a spectacularly beautiful place – jagged limestone peaks, rolling green pastures, high passes and wonderfully hospitable …

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